A Seasoned Technician’s Guide to Dryer Repair, Maintenance & Parts Replacement
Quick note before we start: The information below is provided for general guidance only. Every dryer brand and model is a little different. Always disconnect power, follow your manufacturer’s instructions, and use the correct parts for your model. We accept no liability for any damage or injury that may occur—when in doubt, call a qualified technician.
1. How a Household Dryer Works—In Plain English
Most modern tumble dryers use a simple loop of systems:
- Mechanical Rotation – A motor turns the drum via a drive belt while an idler pulley keeps tension on that belt.
- Airflow & Heat – A fan pushes air past a heater (electric element or gas burner). Warm air flows through the drum, picks up moisture, then exits via the vent.
- Controls & Sensors – Thermostats, moisture sensors, and a run capacitor tell the control board when to heat, cool, or shut off.
When any link in that chain fails—belt slips, heater faults, fan jams—you get damp laundry or a dead machine.
2. Routine Maintenance That Saves Costly Repairs
Clean the Lint Filter After Every Load
A clogged filter chokes airflow, overheats the heater, and can wreck the thermostat in weeks.
Inspect & Clear the Vent System Quarterly
Long vent runs gather lint. If yours is more than three metres, consider a rigid-metal upgrade or a fresh vent kit.
Listen for Odd Noises
Squeaks during start‑up usually point to a dry idler pulley or worn drum rollers. A rhythmic thump often means a flat spot on the belt.
Keep the Drum Level
Unbalanced dryers rattle, shake parts loose, and shorten the life of the motor mounts.
3. Common Dryer Failures & Their Typical Fixes
| Symptom | Likely Culprit | Typical Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Drum won’t turn | Snapped drive belt | Replace with the correct belt—e.g. the 1930 mm 7PH belt on many Simpson, Electrolux & Westinghouse models. |
| Loud squeal or chirp | Dry idler pulley | Swap the pulley and tension spring (see pulleys). |
| Takes too long to dry | Blocked vent, lint‑packed fan belt, or weak heater | Clean vent; check the fan belt and heater contacts. |
| No heat at all | Thermal fuse, element, or capacitor | Test continuity; replace failed parts with OEM or quality compatibles. |
| Door pops open mid‑cycle | Worn strike or catch | Install fresh door strikes & catches. |
4. Step‑by‑Step: Replacing the Most Frequent Wear Parts
A. Drive Belt Swap (Drum Won’t Spin)
- Unplug dryer. Remove top and front panels.
- Note belt path around motor and idler. Snap a photo for reference.
- Slide the old belt off the drum and pull it free of the motor shaft.
- Loop the new belt (1930 mm 7PH for many Aussie/NZ machines) over the drum’s center groove.
- Thread the belt around the idler pulley and motor shaft—ribbed side inward.
- Spin drum by hand; belt should track smoothly. Reassemble.
B. Idler Pulley Replacement (Squeal or Snap)
- Remove belt as above and release spring tension on the pulley arm.
- Undo the retaining clip or bolt, swap pulley, and lubricate the new bushing lightly with high‑temp silicone grease.
- Re‑tension spring, refit belt, reassemble.
C. Fan Belt Change (Weak Airflow)
- Access the rear blower housing.
- Remove old belt—often narrow, like the Simpson 39S variant.
- Fit the new belt around the fan pulley and motor shaft. Check for wobble or broken fan blades.
D. Start/Run Capacitor Swap (Buzzing Motor, Drum Won’t Start)
- Discharge capacitor by shorting terminals with an insulated screwdriver.
- Note wire colours, swap the new capacitor, secure firmly.
- Test cycle. Motor should start without a grunt or stall.
5. Troubleshooting Cheat Sheet for Quick Diagnoses
- Dryer trips breaker instantly: Look for a shorted element or chafed wire on heater box.
- Drum turns but no heat: Check thermal fuse first; if blown, clear vents before replacing.
- Runs but shuts off after 5 minutes: Motor overheating—clean lint, verify cooling fan, inspect centrifugal switch.
- Clothes smell musty: Damp lint inside drum baffles—remove baffles, clean inside.
- Door won’t latch: Replace strike/catch set; adjust hinge alignment.
6. Preventive Care Schedule
Every load: Clean lint screen.
Monthly: Vacuum lint trap cavity and under machine.
Quarterly: Inspect vent hose, wash moisture sensors with mild vinegar.
Yearly: Pull dryer out, strip and scrub the full vent run, examine belts and pulleys for glazing.
Bi‑yearly: Replace drive belt proactively if the machine runs daily.
7. When to Call a Professional
Power supply faults, control‑board issues, gas burners, or sealed‑bearing jobs usually warrant a certified technician. If a task involves gas connections, refrigerant (on heat‑pump dryers), or advanced electronics, hand it off—cheaper than frying a board or voiding warranty.
8. Final Thoughts
Regular cleaning and timely part swaps can double the life of a dryer. With the right belt, pulley, capacitor, vent kit, or door catch on hand, even a first‑time DIYer can tackle the bulk of common faults.
That said, every dryer differs in layout, electrical ratings, and safety interlocks. Follow the manufacturer’s service manual where possible. By using this guide you accept full responsibility for any work you carry out. If a step feels unsafe, stop and book a technician.
Happy drying, and may your laundry always come out warm, fluffy, and lint‑free.